Pro tips for lighting your wood-burning stove
While you should always refer to the manufacturer's instructions when lighting a wood-burning stove, our tricks could help your fire burn brighter.
Fires2U’s pro tips for lighting your wood burner come straight from HETAS, the Heating Equipment Testing and Approval Scheme. We’ve compiled their best advice so that when you light the first fire of Autumn, all the information you need is in one place.
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1. Use the correct fuel
For a wood-burning stove to last, buyers must have an excellent understanding of the appliance’s operating instructions, specifically the most appropriate fuel to burn.
To start, we recommend using certified Ready to Burn logs, which have a moisture content of less than 20%. These logs burn cleaner and, as a result, reduce the amount of harmful emissions released.
Those living in smoke-controlled areas can only burn fuels in an exempt appliance, as outlined by the Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (DEFRA).
DEFRA has also provided a list of authorised/certified fuels that can be burnt in non-exempt appliances. Always refer to your stove’s manual or speak to a professional to make sure you’re using the right fuel.
2. Don’t slumber your stove (unless it’s designed to)
Slumbering a stove is the practice of reducing the air supply to a fire and allowing it to burn more slowly over an extended period.
While this might seem like an effective way to keep a stove burning through the night (or during periods when you don’t need as much heat), it can cause issues for your appliance and the surrounding environment.
Slumbering a stove increases the likelihood of producing tar, soot, and creosote. These substances can accumulate in the flue or chimney, which, if not cleaned properly, poses a fire risk.
The restricted airflow during slumbering can then cause incomplete combustion. The practice can also damage stoves that are not designed for slumbering, unbeknownst to the owner.
Internal components, such as baffles and air controls, can wear out faster due to the build-up of tarry substances. If your stove isn't engineered to cope with low air settings over long periods, the excessive residue can cause long-term damage.
For most people, the best approach is to avoid slumbering altogether unless the stove is designed for it.
3. Gather the right supplies
The way you start a fire will affect how well it burns.
The main supplies you’ll need to execute HETAS’ recommended ‘Top-Down Method’ (provided you’re lighting a fire in a non-smoke-controlled area) are firewood of varying sizes, firelighters and kindling.
It’s best to begin with smaller, thinner pieces of wood. These lightweight pieces catch fire more easily than larger logs. You’ll want to have a good supply of kindling, as it helps establish a solid base for your fire.
Without a strong foundation, the larger logs will struggle to ignite. However, firelighters can also help with this problem. Unlike using newspapers, firelighters burn cleanly and for a longer duration.
Once your fire is burning well, you can begin adding the larger, seasoned logs. To learn about this technique in greater detail, consult our blog on how to light a wood-burning stove.
4. Refuel safely
Once your fire has died down, and it’s time to refuel, the best practice is to refer to the manufacturer’s specific instructions. In the absence of guidelines, we recommend refuelling only when the fire has burned down to glowing embers.
Refuelling at this stage provides the best opportunity to introduce new logs without causing an excessive drop in temperature. Starting when flames are still high can cause an imbalance in the burn cycle, which then causes inefficient combustion.
On the other hand, waiting until the fire has almost completely died out may require restarting the process.
A top tip for success is to avoid overloading the stove with too many logs at once. Overfilling the stove can stifle airflow, which is necessary for proper combustion. Without adequate airflow, the fire may smoulder.
Another trick is to open the stove door carefully when refuelling: this can prevent sudden drafts from pulling smoke back into your room, which can be very unpleasant (or even harmful to those with respiratory problems!)
5. Dispose of ash
Once the fire has completely gone out, it’s essential to leave sufficient time for the ash to cool. Even when it looks like it has cooled, ash can retain heat for several hours or even longer, depending on the fire’s intensity.
Make sure your appliance door stays closed to prevent drafts from blowing ash into your home. Having the correct tools can make handling the ash safer when you're ready to do so.
A sturdy pair of heat-resistant gloves is non-negotiable, as even cooled ash can conceal hidden hot embers. To collect the ash, use a galvanised steel or metal ash can or bucket.
These containers are fire-resistant and, importantly, can be sealed tightly to prevent any ash from escaping. Slowly and carefully scoop the ash into your container, and then transfer it into a designated outdoor area or a metal bin with a lid.
Never allow ash to accumulate in a bucket inside your home: cold ash can still be a fire risk if left unchecked!
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